Sewing-machine.



F. GHATEAUNEUP.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION rum) NOV. 17, 1911.

Patented Sept. 1, 1914.

i I n & a? I FRANK CHATEAUNEUF, OF HAVERHI LL, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNORTO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERFON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATIONOF NEW JERSEY.

SEWING-MACHINE.

LILOEFQOL To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, FRANKCHATEAUNEUF, a citizen of the United States, residin at Haverhill, inthe county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certainnew and. useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines; and I do hereby declarethe following to be a full, clear, and exact description of theinvention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which itappertains to make and use the same.

This invention relates to curved hook needle sewing machines of theclass employed in sewing inseams of boots and shoes.

The objects of the present invention are to improve the construction andmode of op eration of cur ed hook needle inseam sewing machines and toprovide a sewing machine of this class by which an upper may be attachedto an unchanneled insole in a certain and satisfactory manner. I

In accordance with the above objects the machine is provided with a.sole engaging member-or presser foot and with an awl to the soleengaging member the shoe can be turned and manipulated with greaterfacility particularly in sewing about curved portions of the sole suchas the too.

A further feature of the invention contemplates theprovision ofmechanism for oi iierating the awl to maintain the same in engagementwith the sole during the work piercing stroke of the needle. wherebylateral displacement of the sole due to the th rust of the needle isprevented. The sole engaging member is arranged to engage the outer faceof the sole and referably to operate in the angle between he lip of theinsole and the adjacent portion of the body of the insole to assist inguiding the-shoe.

In the best form of the invention which has yet been devised the soleengaging member is provided with a. relatively broad, substantially fiatsurface arranged substan- Specification of Letters Patent.

Application. filed. November 17, 1911.

Serial No. 660,746.

tially parallel with the plane of the insole for engagement with theouter surface of the insole, and with a face arranged to engage theinner side of the lip of the insole to form a guide for the shoe. 7

Further features of the invention consist of certain constructions,arrangements and combinations of parts, the advantages of which will beobvious to one skilled in the art from the following description. i

In the drawin illustrating the invention in its preferred Form, Figure 1is a. side elevation partly in section of a portion of a sewing machineembodyingthe invention. Fig. 2 is a front elevation of the mechanismillustrated in Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a detail side elevation of the soleengaging memher, the ,awl and portions of the levers by which they aresupported looking from the right hand side ofthe machine and showing therelative positionsof the sole engaging member and awl when the awl is inengagement with the sole. F ig. 4 is a detail side elevation of themechanism shown in Fig. 3 illustrating the awl and sole engaging memberin the relative positions which they assume when the awl is out ofengagement with the sole. Fig. 5 is an under side plan view of the soleengaging member detached.

The invention as illustrated is applied to a chain stitch curved hookneedle shoe sewing machine of the well known Goodyear type and as suchmachines are well known to those skilled in the art, only so muchthereof is shown. as is necessary for an understanding of the invention.

The sole engaging member for engaging the surface of the sole to assistin guiding the shoe and holding the same in proper po sition withrelation to the stitch forming mechanism during the sewing operation isindicated at 2. This sole engaging member is provided with a broad baseor foot 3 for engagement with the face of the sole and is preferablyarranged so that the rear side of the base or foot engages the innerface of the lip formed on the outer portion of the sole during thesewing operation to assist in guiding the sole and in holding the samein pro er position with relation to the stitch forming mechanism a'nd sothat the needle 1 operates close to the forward edge Patented Sept, i,1914.

' attached to said slide.

of the base. Thelower or sole engaging surface of the base 3 ispreferably roughened to enable the said member better to hold the sole.

The sole engaging member is preferably arrangedto reciprocate in thedirection of the line of feed and also to move into and out ofengagement with the sole. The said memberis held in engagement with thesole duringthe' work piercing stroke of the needle, is lifted fromengagement with the sole during its retreating movement while the threadis being laid in the hook of the .needle, is again lowered intoengagement with the sole as the needle retracts from the work and'isheld in engagement therewith during its work feeding movement. In thecon? struction illustrated the sole engaging member is attached by meansof screws 4 to an oscillatory lever 5, pivoted to oscillate in a planeparallel with the plane of the needle upon a shaft 6 carried by the feedslide 7. The lever 5 is provided with an arm 8 extending upwardly to apoint adjacent the periphery of a cam disk 9 mounted onthe main shaft ofthe machine.

A cam roll 10 is mounted on the end of the arm 8 and isarranged toengage a peripheral cam 11 formed on the cam disk 9, the cam roll beingheld in engagement with said cam v.bysprings 12 hereinafter described.The said cam imparts through the cam roll 10 an oscillatory movement tothe lever 5 and thereby to the sole engaging member 2. The cam is formedand arranged so that the Sole engaging member is moved into and out ofengagement with the sole in timed relation with the movements of thefeed slide and the parts of the stich forming mechanism. The feed slideis of the usual construction being provided with a rib or tenon 13received in'a suitable groove in the frame of the machine so that thefeed slide is permitted to slide transversely in the direction of theline of feed. The feed slide is operated in the usual manner by a lever15 pivoted at 16 and connected with said slide' by means of a bolt orpin 17 secured to said lever-and operating in a slot 18 in a bracket Thelever 15 is escillated to impart the desired movements to the feed slideby means of a cam groove 19 formed in a cam disk attached to the mainshaft of the machine in which cam-groove a cam roll'20 attached to saidlever operates. The movements thus imparted to the feed slide aresubstantially the same as in the ordinary Goodyear machine of this type.

Theawl or feed point indicated at 2 1 is arranged to reciprocate in thedirection of the line of feed with the sole engaging member and is alsoarranged to move independently of the sole engaging member into and outof engagement with the sole. The awl in the present embodiment of theinvention is held in engagement with the sole during the work piercingstroke of the needle, is lifted out of engagement with the sole duringits retreating movement while the needle is in the work and the threadis being laid in the barb thereof, is again moved into engagement withthe sole as the needle retracts from the work and is held in engagementtherewith during its work feeding movement. By maintaining the awl inengagementwith the sole during the work piercing stroke of the needle,the sole is held more securely from lateral displacement due to thethrust of the needle.

In order that the shoe may be manipulated with greater facilityduringthe sewing operation, particularly in sewing about curved portionsof the sole such as the toe, the awl is arranged to operate in aperforation in the sole engaging member. In the illustrated embodimentof the invention the awl is mounted in a block 22 secured to anoperating lever 23 by means of a screw 24. The operating lever 23 ispivotally mounted to oscillate in a plane parallel with the plane of theneedle upon a shaft 24 carried by the feed slide and arranged beyond theshaft 6 so that the axis of the lever 5-is between the axis of'the lever23 and the sole engaging portions of the awl and the sole engagingmember.

The operating lever 23 is provided with an arm 25 extending upwardlyalongside the arm 8 of the lever 5 and the said arm 25 of the lever 23is connected with the arm 8 of the lever 5 by means of a link 26. Thelink 26 is adjustably connected with the arm 25 of the lever 23 by meansof a bolt 27 passed through a erforation in the said link and through as 0t 28 in the arm 25 of said lever, thereby providing for theadjustment of the connecting point of the link with the lever toward andfromv the axis of the lever to vary the amplitude of movement of theawl. The springs .12 which act to hold the can roll 10 in engagementwith the cam 11 are each connected at one extremity to the upper arm ofthe lever 23 and at the other to the feed slide, as shown in Fig. 2.

In the mechanism above described when the lever 5 is oscillated to movethe sole engaging member into and out of engagement with the sole,oscillatory movements are also imparted to the lever 23 through theconnection of the said lever with the lever 5. Since the axis of thelever 23 is arranged beyond the axis of the lever-5 so that the axis ofthe lever 5 is between the axis of the le ver Y23 and the sole engagingportions of the awl and the sole engaging member, the amplitude ofoscillation of the extremity of the awl will be greater than that of thesole engaging portion ofthe sole engaging member. For this reason whenthe lever 5 is moved about its axis' to lift the sole engaging memberfrom engagement with'the sole, the awl is withdrawn from engagement withthe sole Within the perforation in the sole engaging member so that itcannot'engage the sole during itsretreating movement with the feedslide. When the lever 5 is operated to bring the sole engaging memberinto engagement with the sole, the awl is projected beyond the soleengaging surface of the said member so that it projects a short distanceinto the substance of the sole when the sole is in engagement with thesole engaging member as illustrated in Fig. 1. When the awl is in thisposition the shoe is firmly held against lateral displacement thereby.

The block 22 which constitutes the intermediate connection between theawl and the operating lever 23 is permitted a limited oscillatorymovement with relation to the said operating lever upon the screw 24,thereby permitting the awl to accommodate itself to the perforation inthe sole engaging member during the relative movements of the soleengaging member and the awl.

The relative positions of the needle, the sole engaging member and theawl areillustrated in Figs. 1 and 2. As shown in Fig. 2 the needleoperates in proximity to the lefthand edge or face of the foot of thesole engaging member when the said member has advanced to feed the shoe,and the awl is arranged out of alinement with the needle and thereforemay be held in engagement with the sole during the work piercing strokeof the needle without interfering with the operation of the needle.

I claim- 1. An inseam sewing machine having, in combination stitchforming mechanism including a curved hook needle arranged to enter andemerge from the outer face of the sole during its work piercing stroke,a feed slide, a presser footfor engagement with the outer face of-the.sole supported on the feed slide for movement therewith and mounted foroscillatorymovement to movement therewith and mounted for oscillatorymovement to engage and disengage the sole and having a perforationformed in the work engaging portion thereof, an awl supported on thefeed slide for movement therewith and mounted for oscillatorymovementthrough the perforation in the presser foot to enga e anddisengage the sole, means to operate the feed slide, means to oscillatethe presser foot and connections between the presser foot and awl forimparting oscillatory movements to the awl;

3. An inseam sewing machine having, in combination, stitch formingmechanism including a curved hook needle, a feed slide, an oscillatorylever mounted on the feed slide, an awl carried by said lever, a secondlever mounted on the feed slide to oscillate on an axis parallel to theaxis of said first leverand located between the axisofsaid first leverand the awl,a presser foot mounted on said second lever having aperforation formed in the work engaging portion thereof in' which theawl is arranged to operate, a link connecting the outer extremities ofsaid levers and means to oscillate said second lever.

4. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanisminclu'din a curved hook needle, a feed slide, an oscillatory levermounted on the feed shde, a

resser foot mounted on said lever, a second ever mounted on the feedslide to oscillate on an axis parallel with the axis of the first lever,an awl carried by the second lever, a link connecting the outerextremities of said levers and means to oscillate the first lever.

5. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanismincluding a curved hook needle, a feed slide, an oscillatory levermounted on the feed slide, an awl carried by said lever, a second levermounted on the feed slide to oscillate upon an axis parallel with theaxis of the first lever and located between the axis of the first leverand the awl, a presser foot mounted on thesecond lever. a linkconnecting the outer extremities of said levers and means to oscillatethe second lever.

6. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanismincluding a. curved hook needle, a feed slide, an oscillatory levermounted on said feed slide. an awl carried by said lover a second levermounted on the feed slide to oscillate on an axis parallel with the axisof the first lever, a presser foot mounted on the second lever, a linkconnecting the outer extremities of said levers, the first lever havingprovision for adjustment to locate the point of: connection of the linktherewith at different &

distances from the axis thereof to vary the amplitude of movement of theawl.

7. An inseam sewing machine having, in combination, stitch formingmechanism including a curved hook needle, a feed slide, an oscillatorylever mounted on the feed slide, a presser foot having a perforationformed in the work engaging portion thereof secured to said lever, asecond lever mounted on the feed slide to oscillate on an axis parallelwith the axis of the first lever, an awl supported by the second leverand arranged to operate in the perforation in the presser foot,connections between the first lever and the awl permitting independentmovement of the awl with'relation to the first lever, a link connectingthe outer extremities of said levers and means to oscillate the firstlever.

8. An inseam sewing machine having, in combination, stitch formingmechanism including a curved hook needle arranged to enter and emergefrom the outer face of the sole during its'work piercing stroke, a soleengaging member for engagement with the outer face of the sole mountedto reciprocate in the direction of the line of feed and having aperforation formed in the work engaging portion thereof, .an awlarranged to reciprocate with the sole engaging member in the directionof the line of feed and also arranged to move through the perforation inthe sole engaging member into and out of engagement with the sole, meansto reciprocate the sole engaging member and the awl in the direction ofthe line of feed and means to move the awl into and out of engagementwith the sole.

9. An inseam sewing machlne, having, in combination, stitch formingdevices including a curved hook needle arranged to enter and emerge fromthe outer face of the sole during its work piercing stroke, a soleengaging member arranged to engage the outer face of the sole and havingan opening formed in the work engaging portion thereof, an awl arrangedto 'move through the opening in the sole enga ing member into and out ofengagement with the work, and means to actuate the awl.

10. An inseam sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch formingdevices including a curved hook needle, a sole engaging member having anopening formed in the sole engaging portion thereof, an awl arranged tomove through the opening in the sole engaging member into and out of engagernent with'the work, and means to actuate the awl constructed andarranged to maintain the awl in engagement with the work during the workpiercing stroke of the needle. I

11. An inseam sewing machine, having, in

combination, stitch forming devices includ ing a curved hook needlearranged to enter and emerge from the outer face of the sole during itswork piercing stroke, a sole engaging member arranged 'to engage theouter face of the sole and having an opening formed in the workengagingportion thereof, an'awl arranged to move through the opening in the soleengaging member into and out of engagement with the work, and means toactuate the awl constructed and arranged to maintain the awl'inengagement with the work during the work piercing stroke of the needle.

12. An inseam sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch formingdevices including a curved hook needle arranged to enter and emerge fromthe outer face of the sole during its work piercing stroke, a soleengaging member for engagement with the outer face of the sole in theangle between the lip thereof and the adjacent portion of the body ofthe sole having an opening formed in the work'engaging portion thereof,an awl arranged to move through the opening in the sole engaging memberinto and out of engagement with the work, and means to actuate the awl;

13. An inseam sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch formingdevices including a curved hook needle arranged to enter and emerge fromthe outer face of the sole during its work piercin stroke, and a soleengaging member provi ed with a relatively broad, substantially flatsurface arranged parallel with the plane of the sole for en'- gagementwith the outer face of the sole and with a face for engagement with theinner face of the lip of the insole to form a guide for the shoe.

14. An inseam sewing macine, having, in combination, stitch formingdevices including a curved hook needle arranged to enter and emerge fromthe outer face of the sole during its work piercing stroke, and a soleengaging member provided with a relatively broad, substantially flatsurface arranged parallel with the plane. of the sole for engagementwith the outer face of the sole and with a face for engagement with theinner face of the lip of the insole to form a guide for the shoe, saidmember having an opening formed in the work engaging portion thereof, anawl arranged to move through the opening in the sole engaging memberinto and out of engagement .with the work, and means to actuate the awl.

15. An inseam sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch formingdevices including a curved hook needle arranged to enter and emerge fromthe outer face of the sole during its work piercing stroke, a soleengaging member arranged to engage the outer face of the sole and havingan openthe awl through and Withdrawing the awl ing formed in the Workengaging portion within the opening in the sole engaging 10 thereof, anawl arranged to move through member.

the openin in the sole en agin member 7 1 T 1 into and OITt ofengagement with the work, FRANK LHATEAULEUB' and means for moving thesole engaging Witnesses:

member into and out of engagement with CHAUNCEY M. SINCERBEAUX,

the sole and for simultaneously projecting WARREN G. OGDEN.

